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Epoxy Resin FAQ

Epoxy Resin: Your questions answered

We hope we have covered all of the questions we are regularly asked. If your question isn’t listed here just ask :) and we will also add your question to this page 


Which resin should I choose?

Visit this link for a handy table and guide - Which resin should I choose for my project?

Our resins are loved by our customers in the UK and Worldwide for their ease of use, reliability and superior results. But don’t just take our word for it! Check out our reviews. 

Across our resin ranges we can cater for all projects, so we are sure you will find a resin that is right for you. Check out the guide using the link above for help deciding or visit our product pages for more detailed information about each of our resins.

For beginners we recommend our Apex Resin® as a good all rounder Epoxy Resin. This resin is a good all purpose resin so you can try out many projects. Has an easy 1:1 mix ratio by volume and a good working time so you can get to grips with your new hobby : )

How do I mix resin?

We recommend to mix your resin by volume. Always follow the mixing ratio carefully so your resin cures correctly, changes to this ratio can affect curing. Mix thoroughly, but not vigorously to avoid trapping air for at least 3 minutes scraping around the sides and bottom of the mixing container to combine A and B thoroughly. Separate into smaller containers, as Epoxy Resin heats much faster in larger volumes. This will ensure you have your full working time. Don’t be tempted to add more hardener to make the resin set faster, this affects the balance of each component in the mixture and may affect your cured resin.

How should I get rid of bubbles?

All (Part A) Resins can be affected by the cold, they just don’t like it (I know how they feel!) This can cause either the resin to crystallise or to produce more bubbles in the pour. Both are easily sorted :) We always recommended to pre-warm your Part A Resin (Never the Hardener) in a warm, but not boiling water bath before mixing with the hardener. This will return it to a runny state if it has crystallised and bring it back to a good temperature. Pre-warming the resin is always recommended to reduce bubbles. If you are having a hard time with bubbles, this is usually the step you are missing out! Don’t mix the resin and hardener too vigorously as this can cause air to be trapped resulting in more bubbles. 

To remove any bubbles use a cocktail stick to pop or pass warm air over the surface of the resin with a torch or heat gun, we recommend a heat gun with a low speed setting so that you can control the heat. Work at a distance of approximately 10cm above your artwork, any closer than this and you risk creating ripples and dimples in the resin finish. If you are using alcohol inks DO NOT use a flame as alcohol is flammable. 

My resin has crystallised?

Please see the instructions above in How should I get rid of bubbles?

How much pigment should I use?

We recommend you use our Epoxy Pigment Pastes, Dry Pigments, Glitter or Resin Dyes to colour your resin for perfect results. Never use more than 10% pigment by weight ratio to resin. Add a small amount first and add more until you reach your desired colour. You can always add more pigment but cannot take it away! So start with a small amount and build up.

How do I create cells and lacing? 

Our Epoxy Pigment Pastes will create cells easily every time. Our Supreme White Paste creates the perfect ocean waves or cells. The use of a heat gun to blend the edges of our Epoxy Pigment Pastes will encourage the formation of the cells. Check out our YouTube channel for some great tutorials. 

What is the ideal room temperature to work in when I am creating my art and leaving my work to cure?

This is 18 - 25°C. Try to ensure that your room temperature remains constant throughout, particularly during curing. Try not to leave your artwork in a draft or where the temperature will change. High humidity (over 85%), low ambient temperatures, draughty or air conditioned environments can affect the finished result of resin. If your room is below 15°C, preheat part A resin in a warm water bath before mixing with the hardener.

Why has my resin not cured? 

This is usually due to not mixing the resin and hardener thoroughly before use, adding too much colourant, the mixing ratio was not accurate or the resin was too cold. This can also be due to the factors mentioned in the answer above, as fluctuations in temperature can affect curing. Pouring a layer too thin can also result in your resin still being bendy. Always mix the resin and hardener for at least 3 minutes (use a timer) and scrape the sides and bottom of the container to combine thoroughly. Ensure you measure your resin and hardener accurately as this can affect the balance needed for curing, we recommend to mix by volume. Ensure you are working in the correct environment, see the information above. Contact us if you still some help : )

How much resin should I use as a Top Coat?

We recommend up to 5mm as a topcoat layer, always ensure the below layer is touch dry before applying a top coat. A clear top coat can provide protection for your artwork and ensure the resin has its optimum heat resistance as colourants can affect this.

How long should I wait before pouring a second layer of Resin?

Let your first coat of resin cure until it is hard, but still sticky. This sticky layer allows the second coat of resin to adhere to the first layer. Mix the resin for your second coat and apply to the first layer at this stage. If the resin has cured for longer than this time and is no longer sticky, sanding is required to create a rough surface for the second layer to adhere to. The rough surface will disappear once the second layer is applied creating a crystal clear surface. Always wear a respirator when sanding partially cured resin.

Which resin is best for Coasters?

Check out our handy guide using the link at the top of this page for choosing the most suitable resin for your project. Some of our resins offer extra heat resistance making them more suitable for coasters (Premium Heat Resist and Apex Resin®) A clear top coat can provide extra protection for your artwork and ensure the resin has its optimum heat resistance as colourants can affect this. 

Are all of your resins scratch proof?

Yes! All of our resins are scratch proof. Some of our resins offer extra durability (Apex Resin® and Apex Resin® One Coat) these are great for projects that may need to be particularly hard wearing; however all of our resins produce a non scratch surface.

How long do I need to wait for the resin to be fully cured and at its optimum heat resistance?

This depends on the resin you are using, detailed information regarding this is given on each of our resins product page and ranges from 3-14 days. 

Are all of your resins non yellowing?

Yes : ) our resins offer the highest UV resistance on the market so your projects will stand the test of time.

Why am I seeing a wrinkled effect in my cured resin?

This is a tell tale sign that your resin has become too hot. Either you have waited too long to pour and the resin has started to cure (it has passed it’s working time) or it has been mixed and left in a large volume for too long and overheated. Always abide by working times and separate your mixed resin and hardener into smaller containers as epoxy resin heats much faster in larger volumes. Always check you are working in the correct environment, for more details see above for working conditions and ensure you wait long enough before applying a second layer of resin, see above for advice on this. The surface can be sanded (always wear a respirator when sanding) and a new resin layer poured to rectify this.

Why I am seeing a greasy, waxy covering on my resin surface?

This is called Amine Blush and is a common issue for all resins. Amine Blush is caused when the resin and hardener react with moisture in the air. Try to ensure that you work in a room with a temperature between 18 - 25°C and that your room temperature remains constant throughout, particularly during curing. Try not to work in an area where there may be high humidity or leave your artwork to cure in a draft or where the temperature will change. High humidity (over 85%), low ambient temperatures, draughty or air conditioned environments can affect the finished result of resin. Preheating your part A resin in a warm water bath before mixing with the hardener can avoid this also. To remove this, use an abrasive pad and water (no solvent) a mild soap can be added, rinse and then allow to dry before adding any further layers of resin.

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If you need any more help, or your question isn’t listed here, don’t hesitate to ask. 

We are always happy to help :)

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